Thanks all, message heard!
On the forum it is then....
Here's the 'Round Tuit' you need, so you can't use that as excuse either.
Ha! Thanks RB, not seen one of those before, will add to the modelling tool desk....
Ok, let’s get going...... For completeness I’ll take it from the start (this bit happened a few moons ago)......Chapter 1 – Commencement/Choices/Caveats
First is the choice of RTR to base the V on. I chose the Roundhouse 2-8-0 as:
1. It quite closely matches the V in some dimensions (we’ll see how it doesn’t in others...)
2. has a motor mounted in a cast boiler & surrounds
3. Is relatively low cost (I picked mine up for $97 in mid 2010)
4. Has a nice smooth mechanism
5. Is quite available – if going to this trouble, for sanity choose a RTR chassis you can replace/get parts for. On the negative, it has traction tyres which provide great adhesion but I don’t need the cost (dirt etc.) of traction tyres with a near level layout. On the subject of parts, I rang Roundhouse regards obtaining some spares to be ready for that day when the tyres leave this coil. They don’t have any, and recommended Bullfrog Snot. I thought of some words regarding this situation that aren’t printable. So much for my choosing a chassis with parts.....
Nb. There are other possible RTR basis for the V, which I assume are equally suitable, some of the steps following would likely work for those also.
Alright then, how does the Roundhouse 2-8-0 shape up? For a “quickie” comparison as to applicability of an overseas RTR chassis I overlay a picture/diagram over a good scale drawing. For my “quickie” I used the drawing in the “Green Book” for comparison (remembering that the Green Book picture is as built, not as later) however given copyright issues, I can’t show that here, so attach the diagram I dummied up quickly below just to give you the idea of how this is done. Within MS Paintbrush one can make images transparent and resize then overlay them. Before there are too many
/sacre bleu’s, remember, this is just a “quickie” to see if we’re in the ballpark before committing mularr ....
Background Diagram: PROV
From the quickie we can make a few observations:
On the Right
side, the driving wheel dimensions and their placement looks quite good, and the boiler dimensions look not too bad. I know from looking at a parts diagram that there’s a big weight above a low mounted engine that should be able to be reduced if I find the boiler is indeed too high/large. The tender wheel placement appears close.
On the Wrong
side, obvious issues that will need to be dealt with are already apparent even from this high level look, namely:
- Cab placement
- Cab type
- Chimney and dome type and placement, and possibly all else above the footplate
- Probably the footplate also
- Tender bogie frames
- Tender size (esp. length)
- Cross head – wrong type
- Driving wheel spokes?
..........other than that (....!) as most of these issues are superficial, the Roundhouse 2-8-0 seems to give us a platform to work with.........................
Now, I don’t know of any suppliers of this loco locally, and don’t know anyone who has one, so I took a risk ordering one. The low cost made that feasible. If it cost more I would find someone willing to measure it, mind you if it cost more I probably wouldn’t be too keen on chopping it up.
Also reducing the risk is some basic research - parts diagrams on the internet reveal what’s where under the covers of the loco (eg. If the motor mounted so high as to not allow modification), and forums include discussions that sometimes cover off dimensions or what the prototype the model was based on had, allowing a bit better guessing as to how the model might be. The DCC fad helps us here as there are now usually countless pictures of loco mechanisms on the net as hapless punters work out ways to install chips.
But there was still a risk I would end up with a nice but unusable loco.
Appropriate at this point to state some caveats:
This model can only ever be “near” as some of the differences will not be possible to work around in a timeframe shorter than building the model from absolute scratch. Compromises will be necessary. How “near”the model finishes up I will leave to you to decide.
As mentioned in the opening mail my time is more limited now, so this may take a while. For those considering a scratchbuild, keep in mind the actual build time (as opposed to elapsed) is likely less than you think. Given how few scratchbuilders seem to exist it’s amazing how much “conventional wisdom” there is on how long it takes to scratchbuild, go figure.
This is only my way of building a V. Likely not the best or worst way. Please know I don’t hold any claim this is the best way, I just need a V for my layout and am tackling how to get it.
As I write this I have realised it will be hard to write honestly without my views creeping in. They’re only my views, please take them with a grain of salt and take no offence. If it offends, please stop reading.
Next: Chapter 2 – The Model vs. Prototype